Monday, October 5, 2009

Paris Fashion Week Round-up #3

Usually I try to keep it to 9-12 runway shots. It's a nice, manageable size, big enough to give a realistic idea of what's going on on the runways, but small enough that I don't lose my mind writing about it. But this time...I think I have 18 shots? I mean, it's towards the end of Paris Fashion Week. It's time for the really, really big players, which means I like everything and die trying to narrow down the amazingness. These are some of my favorite looks from all of Spring 2010. Enjoy!

All Givenchy: I don't remember ever being a huge Givenchy fan, but wow. I highly recommend checking out the entire show on yourself, it's a whole other kind of amazing. I'm really impressed by how Tisci managed to inject the same bohemian rocker chic feeling into such a wide range of clothes and silhouettes that would really work for anybody. On the left you've got a more tailored, geometric piece that could appeal to a whole spectrum of ages. The black and white color combo is chic and versatile, the exaggerated collar adds drama and a bit of a tuxedo vibe, and the slouchy pockets keep it from being stiff. In the middle (love, love, love Lara Stone, I seriously hope she doesn't 'slim down' like she threatened), you've got one of this season's big styling tricks, a voluminous, flowy top tucked into a slim, no-nonsense mini skirt. It's equal parts preppy and bohemian, and the print gives it a bit of a tribal edge. And on the right, I love Tisci's take on the asymmetrical draping trend. The mini length balances out the volume perfectly, and the juxtaposition of the soft fabric and diagonal swag with the hardness of that bejeweled shoulder is really breathtaking. Plus, I never thought I'd day this, but that is the prettiest washed-out bluish gray hue I've ever seen.

Emanuel Ungaro, Costume National, Jean Paul Gaultier: Lindsay Lohan + Ungaro = epic fail. Epic, epic, epic fail. This first piece, the pink mini-dress, was the only high point of that incredibly tacky show. I mean, heart-shaped sequin pasties? Really? Really now? You can see a bit of Ungaro on the banded draping on this dress, but aside from that his spirit was missing from this collection. There have been lots of these strapless, shapeless, long in the back short in the front dresses on the runways this season, but Costume National has my absolute favorite version so far. The ways it plays with sheerness and asymmetrical layering are so gorgeous, the pleating and textural contrasts give it so much visual interest, and the lightness of the fabric gives it some shape against the body when it moves, so all that volume isn't overwhelming. Jean Paul Gaultier makes me laugh. I mean, he 'tattooed' the model with their own names, for crying out loud. I like this dress because it's got a bit of his infectious, wild-child spirit in the deconstructed top and stripes, but you can really see the craftsmanship in the layered draping of the skirt. It's rebellious, but polished.

Viktor & Rolf, Viktor & Rolf, Andrew Gn: Viktor & Rolf did some crazy things with tulle. Like crazy, gravity-defying things. There were softer, more wearable versions, like this little dress on the left, with the flirty, flippy hem on the skirt and ruffles on the bodice, and there were edgier, more editorial pieces like this 'ball gown.' I'm not sure how the skirt on that is even staying together, but the combination of that elegant, delicately pleated bodice and the chain-sawed, deconstructed skirt is so ironic and so expected that somehow, it works perfectly. You have to appreciate Viktor & Rolf for taking such a light-hearted approach to fashion. You don't see a lot of grey gowns on the red carpet, but I'm seriously hoping that someone takes this Andrew Gn number out for a spin. It's fashion-forward, with the one-shoulder and woven/bejeweled detailing, but it's also very classic, with the neutral hue and simple silhouette. I think on the right person this could be a showstopper.

All Lanvin: I think Alber Envaz could send his girls out in trashbags, and I would still love it. Boy is a genius. GENIUS. He took the peplum/asymmetrical ruffle trends that have been circulating for awhile, and combined them into one of the best examples of both I've seen. That LBD is priceless--the lines are chic and refined, and the asymmetrical volume makes it modern and just a little bit cheeky. I like how Vlada gets all my favorite looks. A nude, gathered dress could look so wrong, but here it looks so right. The gathering at the waist is so flattering, and the skirt almost reminds me of last season's Balenciaga (in a good way), and don't even get me started on the asymmetrical sleeves. I love the textural contrasts on this green dress. It's a fresh take on the long-sleeved, body-con mini-dress, the slight draping at the hem makes it even more fashion forward, and I applaud Alber for putting out such a luxe look when so many designers are concerned with the economic downturn. I'm sure Lanvin is still selling like hotcakes or (insert some sort of outdated pastry reference here).

Isabel Marant, Ann Demeulemeester, Sophia Kokosalaki: This Isabel Marant dress is adorable and fun, but what I really want are those boots. They also come in black, which I might like better, but you can see more detail in the brown. They're the perfect combination of slouchy, boho, Western, and rock and roll, they're easy to dress up and down, and they have an awesome heel. They are going to be mine. I don't know how I'm going to find or afford them with the Euro-dollar exchange rate, but it's going to happen. Ann Demeulemeester has always been a little dark for me, but I'm dying over this collection, especially this look. It also came with a white mini skirt instead of the maxi, but I like the drama of this version. That jacket is perfect, the black belt/wrap detail breaks up all the white and brings the eye right to her waist, and the white column skirt is so, so chic. This with a hardcore pair of black platform heels = EPIC. I never thought I'd say this, but this Sophia Kokosalaki dress is one chic little leather dress. Leather can come across as trashy, but done in this fawn-taupe, with that inverted sweetheart neckline and that subtle pleating, it comes across as young, not skanky.

All Christian Dior: I have a love-hate relationship. As in I love the clothes, which makes me hate my bank account. Jean Paul Gaultier has been pushing the inner-wear as outer-wear thing for years now, and he's finally having his moment. That floral dress is the perfect day dress, flirty and fun, provocative but also innocent (definite Lolita vibe), and I think I detect a bit of a '40s influence? Love. These two gowns...I have no words. I think the purple might be a little much for a red carpet, even though Megan Fox could totally rock that, but the contrast between the fitted black and the flowing purples layers is so breathtaking. The white gown could totally be red carpet appropriate, and I think with that bustier-inspired top and the radial applique detailing on the skirt, it would be a fab Oscar gown.

Image Sources:
Givenchy:, Ungaro:, Costume National:, Jean Paul Gaultier:, Viktor & Rolf:, Andrew Gn:, Lanvin:, Isabel Marant:, Ann Demeulemeester:, Sophia Kokosalaki:, Christian Dior:

No comments:

Post a Comment


Related Posts with Thumbnails