Friday, September 18, 2009

NY Fashion Week Round-up #5

I think this might be the last NY Fashion Week Round-up. There might be one more? We'll see. Most of the big hitters have already showed, and things are starting to wrap up. So far, the biggest trends I'm seeing are soft, body-conscious draping, aggressive florals, lots of asymmetry, and a slight '70s vibe.

3.1 Phillip Lim, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Doo.Ri: Oh, Phillip Lim. I love Phillip Lim. He is epically cute, and so are his clothes. This season was a little more stream-lined, had lots of plays on texture, and seemed more than a little inspired by reptiles (their scales, not the animals themselves). I love, love, love the way he incorporated a big black strip of leather into a sweet little day dress, and then echoed that in the aviator-inspired leather jacket. It's very unexpected, but it totally works in a slightly retro, rock and roll kind of way. As for the second dress, the styling trick of using two skinny belts at the waist is genius--it adds a ton of visual interest, but it's still very flattering and chic. The abstract blow-up of reptilian hide on the side of the dress is really fresh. It's very modern, very organic, and it makes you stop and think because you recognize the pattern, but can't quite place it at first. I've always appreciated Doo.Ri, but I've never really liked it. And suddenly this season, I want her entire line. Her pieces were soft and romantic, but at the same time structured and almost a little icy, a little removed. The draping on this blue dress is a perfect example of the draping trend we've been seeing all week. It wraps around the body, not exposing too much skin but at the same time being insanely flattering.

Milly, Marchesa, Michael Kors: This look from Milly is nothing new, but it's just such an adorable trench coat that I had to put it in. Pushing the sleeves up like that makes all the difference. There were less gowns than usual at Marchesa this year, but there were still tons of dresses you can see Rachel Zoe freaking out over and pulling for the Oscars (the Rachel Zoe Project, anyone? Anyone?). This column dress is insane. The mermaid shape is very classic and feminine, but the black print applique takes it to a whole other level. It adds an organic element to the otherwise static silhouette, draws the eye straight up to the face, and makes this a complete showstopper. I really love how the applique makes up the entire sleeve--genius. Michael Kors is the king of American sportswear. There's nothing crazy or exciting about this dress, it's just perfect in its simplicity. It really is a perfectly tailored little sequined sheath, and the on-trend nude panel at the bottom makes it just modern enough.

Oscar De La Renta, Peter Som, Tory Burch: Oscar De La Renta can really do no wrong. How perfect is this dress? The sweetheart neckline and a-line skirt are simple and chic, the black and white, ink-scratch print adds a little spink, and the ruffled sleeve keeps it young. And is it just me, or is there some neon at the bodice? I'm willing to bet money this shows up on a red carpet sometime soon. The way Peter Som mixes patterns is insane. I mean, he's got florals, stripes, and what I think is a leopard print working together perfectly. Not to mention all of those pieces would stand nicely on their own, and the soft '40s meets '80s shoulder on that jacket is really working for me. I think Tory Burch may have made the perfect little party dress. It's short, but not too short, fitted, but not skanky, sparkly, but not too sparkly, and the deep v-neck elongates the neck while the black inset keeps it from showing too much skin.

All Proenza Schouler: Proenza Schouler really are the cool kids on the block. They haven't had a bad collection that I can even remember. I mean, I should hate those slouchy, drop-crotch skinny trousers. But somehow, with that soft-shouldered blazer and drapey tee, they work. And neon tiger stripes with a leopard-ish skirt should be ridiculous, but instead it's genius (I realize I say genius a lot, but I mean it, I really do). The blue belt ties it all together perfectly. It's hard to see here, but the textural details on that mini-dress are really jaw-dropping. And can we just talk about these shoes? I mean, really? This needs to stop.

Image Sources:
3.1 Phillip Lim:, Doo.Ri:, Milly:, Marchesa:, Michael Kors:, Oscar De La Renta:, Peter Som:, Tory Burch:, Proenza Schouler:

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