Wednesday, September 23, 2009

London Fashion Week Round-up #2

I'm running out of things to say with these little introductory fashion week blurbs. So far the big trends I see on the runways are aggressive florals, asymmetrical draping, interesting uses of knits, digital prints, '70s inspiration, and I don't know if it's a trend, but there's a lot of styling slouchy, skinny pants with drapey tops for a rock and roll-ish vibe. (see Todd Lynn).

Pringle of Scotland, Erdem, Clements Ribeiro: Pringle had some really interesting stuff going on with knits on their runway. My favorite was how they took a chunky, very sweater-like knit, and made it into a very on-trend, body-con little mini-dress. The looseness of the knit plays into the sheer and cut-out trends perfectly, too. Erdem always does something fun with florals, which happens to be very in at the moment. The cut of this little dress is perfect, the right mix of coquettish and refined, and the organic placement of the flowers at the bodice against the black makes it so carefree and summery. I love the styling of this look from Clements Riberio. I would never think to put a nautical toggle sweater with a floral skirt over a striped dress, but somehow it totally works. I think the key is to keep the prints different intensities (like how the stripes are very graphic whereas the print on the skirt is much softer) so they don't compete, and to try to keep some sort of unified color palette.

Josh Goot, Todd Lynn, Peter Pilotto: Josh Goot does digital prints like nobody's business. The color combination is lovely and unexpected, the geometric gradient pattern is flattering and definitely attention-grabbing, and I love that he put it all on a simple little dress. There have been a lot of monochromatic outfits this London Fashion Week, and this look from Todd Lynn is definitely one of my favorites. It manages to look rich, not boring, in all grey, and the slouchy slim pant/drapey luxe top combo from this Fall obviously has some staying power. As for draping, it was all over the Peter Pilotto show. This dress managed to be absolutely covered in draping and weaving, and yet not look bulky at all. I like how he pulled in pieces of black and white to liven up all that gray. The overall effect is organic, offbeat, and very fashion forward.

Christopher Kane, Christopher Kane, Basso & Brooke: Christopher Kane is still London Fashion Week's favorite it boy. This show had a bit of a Lolita, gingham gone bad vibe that managed to play with sheerness, lingerie-inspiration, structure, and repetitive prints and pleating without looking forced. I love the idea of taking a gingham bustier, which is a revelation in and of itself, and pairing it with a high-waisted mini and an oversized cardigan. It's the perfect marriage of boyfriend style, Americana, and it girl chic. The beading on the second dress works so perfectly with the pink gingham. The bra top might be a little hard to pull off in real life, but can't you see some young Starlet doing a press tour in this dress? What's amazing about this Basso & Brooke dress is the juxtaposition of the classic, reserved cut of the dress against the crazy, wild-child, finger-painted zigzag print. It's polished, but still carefree.

All Burberry Prorsum: When is Burberry not amazing? I mean, Christopher Bailey is a genius. I never thought I'd want a khaki mini-dress, but I want that one. The draping is on-trend, but the khaki hue makes it a little more classic and chic, the bubble skirt is flirty and fun (never thought I'd say that), and the menswear belt gives it a bit of an edge. As for these two trench coats, I die. I think the first is the perfect modern adaptation of the Burberry trench, a little shorter, more fitted, belted instead of tied, cropped sleeves. The fit there is really impeccable. The second trench is such a fantastic appropriation of the '80s, big shoulders trend into something practical, but drop dead fierce. The soft curve and ruching on the shoulders make it less of a statement than, say, one of the Balmain military jackets, so you'd get even more wear out of it. And I even love the socks with heels styling here. Genius.

Image Sources:
Pringle of Scotland:, Erdem:, Clements Ribeiro:, Josh Goot:, Todd Lynn:, Peter Pilotto:, Christopher Kane:, Basso & Brooke:, Burberry Prorsum:

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