Thursday, September 17, 2009

NY Fashion Week Round-up #4

So NY Fashion Week is almost over, which means London Fashion Week (aka the two days of London Fashion Week) is coming up, and then the big guns come out for Milan and Paris. So excited!!! I live and breathe for the Balmain show. I wish I was kidding about that.

Mulberry, Max Azria, Marc by Marc Jacobs: I never would have thought that an all cobalt outfit would work, but Mulberry pulls it off nicely. The little leather jacket is perfectly worn-in, and really refreshing in navy, the tiered dress is flirty enough to balance out the toughness of the jacket, and I even want those shoes. Woven leather and leather lattice-work is coming out as a big trend for spring 2010, and I really liked the metallic skirt version at Max Azria. It's a little Joan of Arc/Xena and could totally be over the top, but styled with a soft, grey t-shirt dress it's just the right amount of Amazonian princess. It's also a nice evolution of last season's bondage trend. I can't help but love Marc by Marc Jacobs. He's so relentlessly adorable, and he links his shows so nicely (don't those hair bows look like the ones from last season's Louis Vuitton?). The stripes on this dress are a little nautical, the colors are a little '80s, and the asymmetrical sleeves keep it modern and fun.

Betsey Johnson, Halston, Vera Wang: Aggressive florals are going to be big for spring. I know those two words don't go together at all, but think enlarged, bold floral prints in bright, neon-ish colors. It's an interesting juxtaposition of feminine and strong, and it's done perfectly in this little Betsey Johnson dress. Without the print, it's just another body-con mini-dress, but with the print...I die. I think Halston is regaining its stride as a label nicely. They do simple-chic like nobody's business. The way the one fluttery sleeve drapes over the body of this little white dress and becomes a bit of an over-skirt is genius. It adds great movement to the silhouette, it plays off last season's asymmetrical sleeve trend, and it has just a hint of Studio 64, which is so chic right now. I have to be honest, I don't usually like Vera Wang. I know. But this season, her hobo-Russian-fairytale aesthetic got a little bit of an edge, and suddenly it all made sense. The slouchy, skinny pants work perfectly with the sheer, drapey tee, the feathery shrug adds a bit of a rock and roll vibe, and the giant, tangled necklace grounds the ensemble. I would wear this in a second.

Badgley Mischka, Narciso Rodriguez, Tibi: Badgley Mischka is always reliable for fantastic, red carpet worthy gowns, and this show did not disappoint. I love the clean, refined lines of the bodice against the feathery, almost shredded feel of the chiffon skirt. It's very rock and roll Cinderella, and the beaded inset at the waist ties it together perfectly. This color-blocked sheath at Narciso Rodriguez is so gorgeous. I like that the color-blocking isn't in gradient order, the black cutaway skirt is nice play on the peplum skirt trend, and the mixture of textures really makes the color palette come alive. I feel like this Tibi dress either has butterflies, birds, or wings all over it (all of which I'm loving), but the real genius is in the cut. The way that dress moves on the runway is INSANE. I like that most of the weight is in the middle of the skirt, because it creates a nice a-line shape, and then the extra length of the skirt adds a bit of quirky glamor.

Rodarte, Rodarte, Temperley London: My undying love for Rodarte is no secret (their Target line drops in two months!!!!!!!!!!). And I recognize that their shows can be a little repetitive, and that their apocalyptic warrior princess aesthetic hasn't changed much in the last few seasons, but I don't care. They're freaking fantastic. The only issue I have with their clothes is that they don't get that much time on the red carpet because they're so out there (props for Kirsten Dunst and Reese Witherspoon for rocking last season's line!). I had so much trouble picking just two looks from this collection. You really need to check out the entire show. These two dresses have such an amazing, reconstructed and pieced-together yet polished and chic vibe. They're almost tragically beautiful. I'd do unspeakable things just to wear one. And don't even get me started on those tribal tattoos or those crazy Nicholas Kirkwood shoes. Last but not least, there was the circus-inspired gorgeousness at Temperley London. The marabou coat and feathery hat are a little '20s, but the black and white dress has a dark, quirky vibe that's very modern, and the sheer overlay almost looks tattoo-like.

Image Sources:
Mulberry:, Max Azria:, Marc by Marc Jacobs:, Betsey Johnson:, Halston:, Vera Wang:, Badgley Mischka:, Narciso Rodriguez:, Tibi:, Rodarte:, Temperley London:

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