Thursday, February 18, 2010

NY Fashion Week #5

NY Fashion Week is slowly heading towards a close, to be swiftly followed (very swiftly followed) by London Fashion Week, and then it's on to Milan! And Miu Miu, and Dolce & Gabbana, and all that loveliness. So far the '70s meets '90s with lots of fur and leather accents trend has been going strong, but who knows what the next 2-3 weeks will bring?

Proenza Schouler, Proenza Schouler, Oscar de la Renta: Proenza Schouler (much like Alexander Wang last season) was heavily inspired by varsity athletics, with a touch of '70s minimalism and lots of tactile fabrics. How chic would that varsity jacket be over basically anything? The high-waisted, kicky skirts with fur trim fit in perfectly with the rest of NY Fashion Week and are sure to be big sellers. Hitting a more delicate note were the psychedelic plaid dresses. The silhouette recalls classic Chloe, but the execution is very cool-kid modern. Oscar did his brand of fabulous glamour, this time with a bit of an '80s theme. This black gown with the dramatic back bustle was an absolute showstopper. The bustle plays up the hourglass-flattering cut of the dress to an insane level, and the overall effect is very femme fatale. Someone has to wear this on the red carpet, for my sake.


All Marchesa: Marchesa killed it. Their Lola Montes-inspired collection was equal parts hard-edged and whimsical, with a hint of circus quirkiness. This little white number reminded me of a McQueen dress from a season or two ago, with the dramatic a-line skirt and cap sleeves. It's a fresh and young, but strong silhouette that would such a fun red carpet choice. Another option is this fuchsia, body-con dress. I love the contrast between the simple, clean lines of the dress and the vibrant hue and organic, swirling appliques--that juxtaposition of robotic and naturalistic is absolutely charming. And then there's the liquid silver dress, Jean Harlow glamour at its best. I'm sure that would be a sight to behold strolling down a red carpet, with the way the light would play off it. I like that the statement-making nature of the fabric is countered by the relative simplicity of the top and its soft nude hues.


Marchesa, Douglas Hannant, Anna Sui: This was my favorite piece from the Marchesa show. It looks a little like last season's Dior, but that's never a bad thing. The boudoir vibe, with the play on the sheer fabrics, is very Galliano, but all the lush folds of that skirt as so Marchesa. It has the effect of a full gown but with the lightness of a cocktail dress, and the patterned overlay has a tattoo-like effect that contrasts nicely with the delicacy of the dress. I need this Douglas Hannant jacket. That is all. Except that the combination of that dramatic collar and cinched waist is making me drool (both for the jacket and because I miss Mad Men immensely). Anna Sui turned out another seriously covetable fur coat, incorporating a geometric print into the fur. I really like that designers are getting creative with fur and working patterns into it. It has a very youthful, carefree feel that counteracts fur's old lady stereotypes.


Phillip Lim, Phillip Lim, Brian Reyes: Phillip Lim was another designer that got on the '70s minimalism bandwagon, but with a decidedly creative approach. The way he worked suspender straps onto that leather skirt and then layered it all over a sweatshirt-esque top is just genius. It's casual but polished, schoolgirl and yet military, and insanely refreshing. His take on pared down nudes was also lovely. I never thought there'd be anything glamorous about a nude coat over a peach dress, but here has an insouciant, almost rock and roll vibe that really works with this season's trends so far. And last but not least, this stunning gown at Brian Reyes. On first glance it's just a simple, but gorgeous, black column dress, but when you look closer and see at the asymmetrical detailing, it really comes alive. I love subtle, quirky details like that. Even though they won't translate well to a red carpet, there's something so subversive and yet chic about them. I could totally see this on someone like Angelina Jolie--basic black with a twist is so up her alley, no?


YARNZ Chantilly Lace Scarf, $165 at shopbop.com, Mason by Michelle Mason Open Spine Top, $198 at shopbop.com, Camilla and Marc Congo Frock stretch-jersey dress, $390 at net-a-porter.com: And here's a mini episode of Things Megan Wants to top it all off. I love lace. I love scarves. Ergo, I love this lace-printed scarf. It's a cheeky and clever use of trompe l'oeil, and adds just enough detail to look special but not overwhelming. I'm really feeling open-backed tops and dresses right now, and this Mason by Michelle Mason manages to do back cutouts in a chic, refreshing way. It almost mimics the structure of a human rib cage, which adds a nice morbid twist, and shows a good amount of skin without coming across as trashy, with the very simple front. This Camilla and Marc dress is along a similar view, with the x-straps in front and back and a large back cutout accompanied by a big exposed zipper. The silhouette works now and is very in keeping with what's on the runways for Fall, when back cutouts will still be chic.


Image Sources:
Proenza Schouler: style.com, Oscar de la Renta: style.com, Marchesa: style.com, Douglas Hannant: style.com, Anna Sui: style.com, Phillip Lim: style.com, Brian Reyes: style.com, YARNZ scarf: shopbop.com, Mason by Michelle Mason top: shopbop.com, Camilla and Marc dress: net-a-porter.com.

3 comments:

  1. Loved the Brian Reyes gown. Those quirky cut outs really set his designs apart

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  2. I totally agree. His use of cutouts and geology-inspired prints is so unique! There's really no one like him

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  3. I love the Brian Reyes dress!!!!

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