Wednesday, February 24, 2010

London Fashion Week Round-up #3 and Marc Jacobs

I'm running out of little intro things to say because all I can think about is BURBERRY. OMG BURBERRY. I want every look from that show. Christopher Bailey basically summed up most of the trends we've been seeing to far ('70s, military outerwear, fur/shearling trim, aviator jackets) and combined them all into a fantastic collection of jackets. Don't get me wrong, the dresses and skirts were lovely too, but all I remember are those jackets.

All Burberry Prorsum: There are so many different options! A varsity jacket exaggerated and done over in shearling with military-esque trim on the sleeves? Check. An aviator jacket in rich black leather with an oversized shearling collar and shearling lining? Got it. A quirky take on the usual peacoat in a deep olive with giant, black fur trim on the bottom? Not a problem. It all kind of reminds me of the Balenciaga collection from a few seasons ago, with all the shearling trimmed olive aviator jackets? That man is a genius. You could really wear any one of these jacket for the next year with just about anything, and not get sick of it. Also loving the thigh-high boots and slightly deconstructed dresses under those heavy duty jackets.

Burberry Prorsum, Burberry Prorsum, Nathan Jenden: The peacoat has a serious USSR vibe to it, especially with the gold buttons, but with that cut and how it nips in at the waist, and then the slim sleeves--it's a classic military shape made new with a body-skimming, flattering cut. That's a serious wardrobe staple if I've ever seen one. Marc Jacobs did a white coat just like this one, but with even more exaggerated fur trim, but I think I like Chris' version better. The fur trim here is a little more subtle, and even more luxe looking, and the black belt adds needed contrast. The overall effect is very Russian snowbunny meets international spy (that may just be because I'm watching Alias right now, call me crazy), and it may just me the best statement coat ever. This Nathan Jenden look is so badass ballerina, I'm loving it. The top is a little '80s, with the asymmetrical sleeves and sheer paneling, and the skirt is full out Degas feathery tutu. It's one of those unexpected combinations and silhouettes, but it really works. The volume of the skirt against the body-con top and the defined waist create an hourglass shape, and that skirt is just so sassy.

Nathan Jenden, Jonathan Saunders, Peter Pilotto: This fall season is going to be all about sporty, military outerwear. We've seen a lot of rustic anoraks so far (see Burberry above), and I think this athletic, almost windbreaker-esque verison from Nathan Jenden could be a fun alternative. All the silver gives it a slightly futuristic feel, and the exaggerated collar adds a little extra drama that ensures it would never be mistaken for an actual windbreaker. This Jonathan Saunders look is pretty similar to the Nathan Jenden look above, but in a more minimalist, sporty vein. There's less play on volume, the fringed skirt moves really well, and all the texture down below works nicely with the smooth, clean lines of the top. I'm not sure I understand the print on this Peter Pilotto dress, but I like it. It feels a little cubist meets surrealist meets patchwork/collage insanity, and all that would be overwhelming if it wasn't on a simple, clean-lined dress in a neutral color. As it is, it's stunningly odd, but somehow chic.

Marc Jacobs Splash--Biscotti, $68 for 10 oz. at, Marc Jacobs Splash--Pomegranate, $68 for 10 oz at, Diane von Furstenberg Uttana Dress, $475 at This is really random and me-specific, but I have this odd stomach thing that makes me nauseated a lot of the time, so super-strong, high-sillage perfumes aren't really an option to me. So I've been scouting around at a lot of EDTs for a possible new signature fragrance, and I stumbled across these new Marc Jacobs Splashes. Biscotti has notes of Freesia, Bergamot, Orange Blossom, Pistachio Blossom, and Vanilla, and although the name sounds like it could come across as insanely sweet, the notes make it sound girly, but refined and light. It could be the perfect, casual daytime scent, and when people ask what I'm wearing I'd be able to say "Biscotti!" Maybe only I'm amused by that. The Pomegranate Splash has notes of Pomegranate (crazy), Mandarin Blossom, Bergamot, Rhubarb, Violet, Musk, Vanilla, Amber, and Exotic Fruit Accord. It sounds juicy and fruity, but with a nice, warm edge. If it smells anything like real pomegranates, I love it. It could be a refreshing alternative to all those heavy, overly sweet/musky 'going out' perfumes I usually go for at night. I know the picture of this DVF dress is ridiculously small (sorry), but the combination of the classic, clean cut, the crazy, multi-colored print, and all the ruching along the sides is really working for me. It's kooky, but chic, and that print is really on-trend for next fall. Since it's such a simple cut, it would be easy to wear or layer in a ton of different ways, which translates into more wearings and lower cost per wear. Always a plus!

Image Sources:
Burberry Prorsum:, Nathan Jenden:, Jonathan Saunders:, Peter Pilotto:, Marc Jacobs Biscotti EDT:, Marc Jacobs Pomegranate EDT:, DVF dress:

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