First off, an adorable video of Hannah Holman behind the scenes at NY Fashion Week:
Ralph Lauren, L'Wren Scott, L'Wren Scott: Ralph Lauren did Great Gatsby meets Balmain's rock and roll chic, and it was lovely, if very classic Ralph Lauren. I could do without the fishnet arm warmers, but that shredded floral dress is drop dead gorgeous. There's something so tragically elegant about it, so innocent and yet so, so dark. Lovely. L'Wren Scott turned out a few stunning red carpet gowns, as usual. I hope this first dress makes it to the red carpet. It's polished and yet, but somehow so savage at the same time, and that silhouette is insanely flattering. This last gown reminds me of what Nicole Kidman wore to last year's Oscars, which I disliked immensely, just darker and sparklier. It works better in a darker color palette, but all those feathers just look off. I love deconstruction as much as the next Rodarte nerd, but the top of this dress just looks messy. If it had a clean neckline, and then the feathers started I think it could be much more effective.
Naeem Khan, Naeem Khan, Isaac Mizrahi: I love that Naeem Khan is getting famous now! Thanks to Michelle Obama, I'm sure. He's so talented. This first dress kills me. The asymmetrical draping, the way that sleeve hangs casually off her shoulder, the ruching and slit up the front. It's so casually glamourous , and the zebra-esque print gives it a slightly animalistic vibe that is totally in keeping with this season's trends. The play on textures in this second gives is absolutely stunning. I totally love this new cocktail dress underneath, sheer gown on top trend. It has the drama of a gown with the lighter weight and carefree nature of a cocktail dress. Those gold flowers almost look as if they're floating in a little cloud around her legs. Drool. Isaac Mizrahi toned down his eccentricity this year for a surprisingly wearable show. The snow falling on the runway was a particularly lovely touch that was only outshone by the gorgeous dresses. This mini dress is so Baroque opera curtain fabric and draping, but the short silhouette and strapless neckline keeps it all modern and chic.
Isaac Mizrahi, J. Mendel, J. Mendel: How can you not smile at the explosion of tulle from the skirt of this sequined dress? It's so exuberant and fun, very Glinda the Good Witch goes to the disco, which is not only breathtakingly lovely, but very on-trend. J. Mendel does fur and asymmetrical draping like nobody's business, and since everyone else seems to have gotten on his bandwagon this season, he put out a characteristically classic show that's sure to up his profits considerably. One of my favorite furs was this oversized, brown jacket. It's just so huge and over-the-top that it actually makes sense, and the tights underneath and belted waist keep it from being too staid or stuffy. Just imagine wearing that much fluffiness. The dresses were classic J. Mendel, lots of pleated chiffon and organic draping and detailing. The slate blue-grey hue of this gown tones down the girly factor off all that fluffy pleating considerably, and the way it transitions from tight, Grecian pleats at the top to asymmetric bunching at the hips to the plain, full skirt is simply breathtaking.
All Paris 68: Paris 68 is a new label headed up by the wife of the man currently working on William Rast with Justin Timberlake (she also consults for William Rast). The contrast between those two aesthetics is really astounding. I like William Rast for their jeans and fun jackets, but their clothes aren't directional or all that chic. Paris 68, on the other hand, is absolutely lovely. It's on trend, it has a strong point of view that was consistent throughout the show, and it bridges the gap between fashion forward and wearable nicely. With this first dress we have that long sheer overlay over short mini dress silhouette again, this time in a very feminine pale pink floral. The edginess of the cut contrasts the girliness of the fabric perfectly, and OMG, those shoes. Here's the Paris 68 take on the fur movement, a very Parisian chic fur jacket either over or attached to a long sweater/coat (layering outerwear is going to be huge, btws) and on top of a dusty mauve-grey mini dress. Me want. And I'm really intrigued by this last look. It seems like a long sleeved tee with a cutaway train over a pair of slim pants. Probably not all that practical for real life, but it's absolutely stunning on the runway. It reminds me of the half-gowns from the last few seasons of Balmain, but in a cooler, more casual way.
Marc by Marc Jacobs Bow Wow Wow Leola Satchel, $498 at shopbop.com, T by Alexander Wang Sweatpants with Seam Detail, $115 at shopbop.com: I love the shape of this Marc by Marc bag (the name, not so much). The lines are very simple and classic, but that twist detail adds so much organic softness, while the perforated leather on the sides gives it just a hint of sportiness. Sweatpants, oddly enough, are going to be big for the next season or two. The slim but slouchy silhouette is all over the runways, but it's hard to nail down in real life without spending a ton of money or looking like you just rolled out of bed. These T by Alexander Wang pants are the perfect combination of casual and athletic. The slouchy cut works with the slim lines and thin fabric, the ankle bands keep the shape tight and mean that you can push up the hems (as shown) to expose a little extra skin, and all the geometric banding makes it more minimalist chic than long john-esque. Plus, how comfy would these be? Throw on a pair of heels, a light, drapey tee, and a motorcycle jacket, and you're good to go.
Hannah Holman vid: nymag.com, Marc by Marc Jacobs bag: shopbop.com, T by Alexander Wang sweats: shopbop.com, Ralph Lauren: style.com, L'Wren Scott: style.com, Naeem Khan: style.com, Paris 68: style.com, Isaac Mizrahi: style.com, J. Mendel: style.com.