John Galliano, Miu Miu, Roland Mouret: I'm 99% sure that this first model is wearing hip padding. I mean, right? Huh. That gown is hot. It's such a flattering shape, with the sweetheart neckline, and then the emphasis at the waist and nude panel at the hips creates this amazing hourglass shape, and then you add in all that gorgeous detailing...I know I say this a lot, but it will be a crime if this doesn't make it onto a red carpet. Miu Miu was all about cats. No, really. Cats. Cats are a big thing this season. Not sure how I feel about that (I'm more of a dog person, to be honest). There's something really charming about this blouse layered over this little girl day dress--it flashes just enough skin to take it out of playground territory, but it still has a hint of that innocence. Love the long, sideswept braid. Roland Mouret is my hero for taking the base of his Galaxy dress and making it into an actual dress in a season full of lingerie detailing and nude fabrics. I mean, you could buy it and wear it as a dress, or wear it under a dress for extra slimming that doesn't look like it belongs to an octogenerian. Layering a black tee underneath is just an extra touch of genius.
Kenzo, Hermes, Elie Saab: Military chic is back. I'm not one for camo prints in general, but here, with those safari-chic shorts and that gorgeous scarf, I think it works. Mostly I just want that scarf. Really badly. I have to give Hermes props for making a classy little leather dress. Don't get me wrong, it's still sexy (I mean it's leather with a deep v-neck), but somehow it has a touch of elegance. I think Hermes could take black leather thigh high boots and make them classy. It's just what they do. The print on this Elie Saab dress reminds me of a Monet painting; it's fantastically abstract and organic, but not overwhelming at all. Don't get even get me started on that draping. It's so Lanvin, the perfect amount of asymmetrical drape without too much volume.
Elie Saab, Collette Dinnigan, Collette Dinnigan: Elie Saab: art deco gorgeousness. I mean, what else is there to say? She looks like the Chrysler building. In a good way. So statuesque. This Collette Dinnigan dress combines so many of my favorite things: ombre, draping, boatnecks, emphasized shoulders, gorgeous detailing. It's a very subtle take on the tulip shaped draping at the hip (definitely left over from fall's Balenciaga). Romantic peasants were big on the runways this season (see Chanel), and this is one of my favorite iterations. The tiers and puffed sleeves are very soft and romantic, but the mini length and the way it hangs off her shoulder are so modern, and the sheerness is very on-trend.
Giles: I almost missed adding the Giles show, and I'm so glad I didn't. This might be my favorite Giles collection of all time. Aside from the dinosaur stuffed animal bags, it was actually wearable. The shape of this first dress is almost a little Calvin Klein, with its clean, minimalist lines. The band at the waist keeps the body from being shapeless, I love, love, love the grey/coral color palette (it's so unexpected, and it keeps the whole look from being too girly), and the different textures are a delicate take on the trend. As for these two bustier dresses...wow. The first one screams Rihanna, and yes it's a little over the top in an S&M way. The juxtaposition of the leather, studded bodice and the tiered, sheer skirt is perfect, the structure of the top against the soft swing of the skirt. The second dress is the Katy Perry version. It's crazy, VMA awards insanity, but I want it. That gold leather with the pink tulle--it's like a glam disco ballerina.
Image Sources:
John Galliano: style.com, Miu Miu: style.com, Roland Mouret: style.com, Kenzo: style.com, Hermes: style.com, Elie Saab: style.com, Collette Dinnigan: style.com, Giles: style.com.
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